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For bare root hollyhocks, dig a hole twice as wide and twice as deep as the bare roots. Carefully spread the roots out in the hole. Then, holding the roots in one hand, suspend them over the hole at the proper depth, i.e., level with the surrounding soil. Fill in and around the roots with soil until the hole is completely filled. Tamp the soil with your hand to remove air pockets. Create a "saucer" around the planting hole with soil, and fill the saucer with water. Let the water soak in and fill the saucer again until the roots are completely watered.

Hollyhocks do best in full sun; in moist but well drained areas. They enjoy compost, particularly a compost of rotted manure.

Sharon

My new location has an old apple tree that needs to be pruned. It has begun to bud, should I wait till fall to prune? It has a lot of apples the first year and only two last year. The house was a fixer-upper so we are just getting to the yard. Thanks for your help.

The most important piece of information you gave me was that your apple tree has begun to bud, so the answer is "yes" you should wait until fall (or later) to prune. I'm not sure from your address if you're talking about a tree on Guemes, or in Iowa. Location, weather and temperature determine when a tree breaks dormancy, but once a tree begins to bud, one should wait until late fall to prune. On Guemes, January and February are usually the best months to prune fruit trees. If you'd like more information on pruning, please let me know.

Sharon

Thanks for the reply-my apple tree is on Whidbey Island, which we love. We are developing a property that we hope to retire to in a couple years. We recently planted several other fruit trees and blueberry bushes there. I have composted steer manure and compost available. Can I mulch them with a layer of each of these? I didn't add any to the planting holes, just used soil mix as I had to plant on mounds because my site was soggy. Thanks for your help.

Yes, mulch is always helpful, both to nourish the soil by providing organic material, improving soil texture, and protecting from extreme heat and cold. When mulching, be sure to keep the mulching material away from the trunk of the plant. I wouldn't put more than 2-3" around each plant. In my opinion, if mulch is put on too deeply, over time it raises the soil level of the planting area, and can encourages roots to grow into the mulch rather than downward.

I'd like to ask you more about the soggy site. As you know, most plants don't like to have their roots continually in a wet situation. Can you do anything to increase drainage? Adding organic matter into the soil is one of the best way to improve the environment for plants in any type of soil. It helps to aerate and improve permeability in fine-textured and compacted soils. I'd be happy to try to assist in finding ways to improve the site.

Sharon

I recently bought a house on Guemes that has brick walkways. All the cracks are covered in moss, even on the southern side of the house where it gets sun. I would like to put thyme in the cracks. What types of thyme would be the best ones to use? After I pull the moss out of the cracks is there anything else I need to do before putting in the Thyme?

What a great idea! The best thyme to use would be either Woolly Thyme or Creeping Thyme (Mother-of-Thyme). Both are evergreen, and both creep. They need average to poor, well-drained soil. If you purchase the thyme in 4" pots, or a flat, depending on the amount needed, you can cut the plants into strips to fit the planting spaces. The soil surrounding the roots should be sufficient for the plants. (If you use too rich of a soil, you could encourage weeds! ) An occasional watering with a liquid fertilizer would provide nourishment if needed. Once established, thyme needs little to moderate water, and can be sheared or cut back to keep it compact.

Sharon

My kids want to buy me a gift for my garden and I was thinking of mallow to plant on the water side. Few things like it so close to the water but in my Western Garden book it says the mallow is a weed. I would like some color but don't really have room for shrubs. I am planting several kinds of grasses and lavender but what else would be good? I don't especially like rugosa roses.

I need a bit more information: Do you want perennials? How tall? Wind, drought, sun tolerant? At the front of the Sunset Western Garden book, there is a "Guide to Plant Selection that describes plants suitable for various garden situations. I'm curious as to what attracted you to mallow. I don't have the latest edition of Western Garden, but it isn't described as a weed in my edition. There are several varieties; Malva alcea is a perennial that isn't described as invasive, with a pretty flower similar to the hollyhock flower. Also, Becky Stinson, a master gardener living on the island, works at Ace Hardware. She manages the garden section, is very knowledgeable and helpful, and would be able to make suggestions and show you what the plants looks like "in person!"

Looking forward to hearing back from you.

Sharon

I have two madrona trees that were planted about 7 years ago and have thus far made it. However, this year all the leaves appear to be diseased, big black spots all over those that are still alive, with much of them being dried up and dead.

What can I do to treat these trees? It looks as though there are signs of new leaves to come and I have picked all the old ones off that I could reach. I don't want to loose them.

I have searched for any new information that might provide a cure for leaf spot on madrona trees, if this is indeed what is happening to your trees. Unfortunately there is no cure, but leaf spot is more of a cosmetic problem, and not one that will kill the tree. Leaf spot is most prevalent during late fall, winter, and early spring affecting the "year old" leaves. New leaf growth in spring and summer will be healthy and improve the look of the tree. However, the young leaves are infected by air-borne spores during wet weather after they leaf out in spring, thus repeating the cycle. Raking up and destroying the fallen leaves can help reduce the spread of the spores, and lessen the damage.

As a Master Gardener I cannot recommend the following tip, but I will pass it along to you: a local gardener swears by using a liquid copper fungicide spray on his madrona trees. He says all his neighbors have black spot on their madronas, and his have none by using the copper spray. I have not tried this, so cannot give any dilution rates. The directions would be on the label.

Your description of your trees sounds like most of the leaves are affected. Are there visible signs of damage to other parts of the tree, i.e., branches, bark or trunk? Please let me know if you see other signs of damage, as something else may be going on. Unfortunately, madrona trees have been attacked by a number of problems in recent years.

Thank you for your question.
Sharon

We have an orchard going on 4 years old this spring. Included in our trees are 2 Italian Prune. So far, we've gotten very little fruit and last year one of them developed curled leaves. To add to this problem, we were invaded with, what appears to be, voles. They've dug little tunnels all over, but especially near the prune trees. Could this have an effect on why we aren't getting fruit? All of our other trees which include apple, cherrry, peach, nectarine and pear, all seem to be doing well and are producing as much fruit as one would expect. I know this is a two part question, but the voles DO need to be addressed also. Any ideas of how to get rid of the pesky rodents? Help!

Thank you for your questions.

Regarding the poor fruit production of the 2 Italian prunes, my first thought would be to ask what variety you have planted. Italian Prune is a European type which can set fruit with its own pollen, but produces better crops with cross-pollination. Acceptable cross-pollinizers are Damson or Seneca, with Seneca rated the best quality for our area.

Leaf curl on plum trees is caused by the Leaf curl plum aphid (not kidding!!). My own ornamental plum had this problem every year until I began using a dormant oil spray in late winter or early spring (just before buds break). Right now would be about the right time to apply. Thoroughly cover all portions of the tree, including small limbs and shoots. I usually do two applications, approximately a week or two apart. I have used Lilly/Miller Polysul with good results. This is a lime-sulfur fungicide, which is not labeled for control of aphid eggs, but has largely controlled the aphid problem.

Voles can certainly damage fruit trees by feeding on tree roots and girdling trunks. They tunnel through vegetable and flower gardens, feeding on roots, tubers and bulbs. Obvious signs of a vole problem would be gnawed roots and root crops. During the growing season, trees damaged by voles are leggy and thinly leafed with a reddish tinge to the foliage.

Girdling of tree trunks just about the soil line, and extensive well-used tunnels through soil, grass or thatch are another indication of voles. They often leave open, 1-inch holes in heavily infested areas.

Vegetation management is the key to keeping vole populatons low. Where fruit trees are growing, keep the tree rows free of vegetation at least three feet on both sides of the trunks, either by weeding or using a registered herbicide. If you use a weed whacker, be very careful not to hit trunks. Mow grass between rows and keep it short. Eliminate any thatch that voles can hide under. Also, mulch around trees can encourage voles. Be sure to pick up any fallen fruit that voles might eat. Also be aware that fallen seed from bird feeders is very attractive to any kind of rodent.

In addition, for small populations of voles, trapping may provide sufficient control. Use an ordinary mousetrap baited with peanut butter or a piece of apple.

Hope this helps!

Sharon

I was reading your notes on Plum Trees that grow well here. Just one more thing I need to know...do you have to plant 2 for pollination? If so, which varieties are best to plant together?

All the varieties of plum I mentioned as performing well in our area produce better crops with cross-pollination. Methley, Beauty and Shiro are Japanese type plums; Seneca and Italian Prune are European type plums.

Most Japanese-type plums require cross-pollination to set a crop; most European-type plums can set fruit from their own pollen, but produce better crops with cross-pollination. Of the European type, Seneca and Italian prune provide cross-pollination for each other.

Of the Japanese type, any combination of the three varieties will provide cross-pollination for the other.

Sharon

Thank you for your information!!! I have to say that this year has been a learning experience with the Transparent and a very positive one as well!! I was much more intune with the tree and it was so full of fruit i felt i could experiment!! I happy to report that i am no longer thinking of cutting it down!!! ( Actually I was just going to graft something else onto it) You were right I was picking way too late early apples were terrific-both sweet and tart at the same time mildly crisp and somewhat juicy the flesh is rather firm (which is why I think it makes such great sauce). My son and I made some great batches of fresh sauce 15 t. apples and 15 crab apples (not sure of variety) 10 minutes in the microwave 3-4 tablespoons sugar couple cloves and cinnamon. My son exclaimed "apple sauce is good but this has so much more flavor" !

The plum tree we pulled out all the stops!! Mixed up the kitchen spice cupboard -garlic, spearmint, cayenne pepper, a liquid soap, pulled out an old cigar brewed up some tobacco tea (untreated un-chemicalized tobacco-NOT FROM A CIGARETTE). I gowned up in rain gear and facemask and just blasted the tree 3 different times over the course of 2 weeks plus hosing off before treatment and several days later!! The problem is no longer a problem new growth started and the fruit is still ripening.... I have found many ladybug pupae active on the plant since last treatment and it appears they are controling the aphids. The fruit is still some time from ripening. I'll keep my fingers crossed and will be more agressive the the over winter sprays!!!! Only did it once this season.. early spring before bud break.

Thank you for your information!! I enjoy reading your site.

Thank you for your feedback and helpful information. I really appreciate your non-toxic approach to aphid control. After re-reading my response to you, I realized that home garden products containing diazinon were recalled by the EPA, and not available for sale after December 31, 2004. The reference I cited, "Pacific Northwest Insect Management Handbook," was published in 2000. Your non-toxic alternative can do no harm, and sounds like it did a lot of good! What were the proportions of your ingredients?

Thank you also for your sauce recipe.

Sharon

I have been interested in your comments on apples! I have a "King Apple" and a "Transparent" , both of which seem to get great reviews! My Transparent seems to be very pithy!! Am I picking too late, not watering enough not enough organic material??? The King is an awesome producer huge tasty fruit!!!

Another question I have a Brooks plum that seems to get absolutely inundated with aphids, every leaf underside completely covered!!! I release ladybugs early and also wash with mild soapy water to try to lessen the number. Three years in a row and same thing!!! What can I do???

Thank you for your questions regarding fruit trees.
Regarding transparent apples, I believe you are picking too late. Based on my own very unscientific experience (I went over to a neighbor's garden and tested her transparent apples!), the nearly ripe apples were crisp and juicy. The riper ones were pithy. She does no watering, nor does she use any amendments--the trees are mature and well established. The ripe apples I tested were all yellow in color; the nearly ripe were more greenish, and definitely firmer to the touch. Transparent apples are wonderful for pies and applesauce; in my opinion, no other apple comes close. I don't consider them as a good raw eating apple however; they seem to be rather tart until fully ripe and then sweeter but pithy

I don't have an edible plum fruit tree in my garden, but I do have several flowering plums, one of which was inundated with aphids and associated leaf curl. I was ready to cut it down until I tried using a dormant oil spray in late winter or early spring (just before buds break). I have used Lilly/Miller Polysul with good results. This is a lime-sulfur fungicide, which is not labeled for control of aphid eggs, but it has largely controlled the aphid problem in my own experience.

When applying, thoroughly cover all portions of the tree, including small limbs and shoots. I do this religiously every year! Following label directions, Polysul can also be used in the spring and summer.

During the dormant (from leaf fall until growth resumes in spring) or delayed dormant (from the resumption of growth, indicated by bud swell until green tip) period, the Pacific Northwest Insect Management Handbook also recommends using an oil plus diazinon EC mixture to give better control of several other over-wintering pests. If this does not eliminate the aphid problem, once they appear one can use either diazinon EC or Thiodan EC insecticidal soap. In the case of diazinon EC, allow 10 days minimum time from last application to harvest; with the insecticidal soap all 7 days minimum time to harvest.

I hope this will solve your aphid problem, and arrive in time to harvest some juicy transparent apples!!

If you have any questions regarding the above, or other gardening questions, please contact me.

Sharon

I just brought and planted 4 Winter - Gem Boxwoods. When should I start to prune them? They are only one foot tall now. I am wanting them to reach 3 feet. They don't have much shape now. I want them to be in a dome shape in the future.

Until your boxwoods reach the desired height, little pruning is required, especially if grown as an informal shrub. Cut back overlong growths to within the bush to mask the cut.

Once the desired height and shape is obtained, maintain by trimming long shoots. If a perfect shape is not required throughout the year, two cuts or clippings during the growing season (late spring and late summer) are usually sufficient to keep the shaped effect. For more information on pruning boxwoods (buxus) or pruning and training in general, The American Horticultural Society Pruning and Training, Christopher Brickell and David Joyce, is an excellent resource book.

If you have any further questions regarding boxwoods, or any other gardening question, please contact me.

Sharon

We've never grown fruit before and have found some Jonagold apple and bing cherry trees available in the form of "bare roots" and would like to know if the fall is a good time to plant them in our area - or when is the best time to plant them, and then also what is the best way to prepare the soil and do they need special protection in the winter? Thanks!

Thank you for your questions regarding bare root fruit trees. I'm not sure of the definition of "bare roots" that you found, if they are available now. Most bare root fruit trees are only available in January and February, during their dormancy period. I checked a nursery in our area, and the only fruit trees they have available now are in pots, and therefore, more expensive. The best time to plant bare root stock is during their dormancy period, generally the latter part of January through February, and possibly the early part of March, before leaf and flower buds have begun spring growth.

In general, fruit trees need full sun for proper growth and quality fruit production. Early morning sun is particularly important since it dries the dew from leaves, reducing the potential for disease. Spacing is important also. Apple trees typically are spaced from 4 to 5 feet apart, to no more than 20 feet apart, and other tree fruit trees, i.e., Bing Cherry, are commonly spaced farther apart because they often lack growth-controlling rootstalks. Dwarf, or semi-dwarf, can be planted somewhat closer.

Neither Jonagold apple nor Bing cherry are self-pollinizers; they need a compatible cross pollinizer to produce fruit. Plant pollen-compatible trees within 100 feet of each other to ensure adequate pollinization. Jonagold is classified as a mid-bloomer, and good choices in our area for cross pollinizers would be Akane, Liberty and Spartan. Varieties of cherries that will cross-pollinate with Bing cherries include Hardy Giant, Early Burlat, Angela, and Rainier, in order of suitability for our area.

Prior to planting a bare root tree, the roots can be soaked in water for a half hour or a little longer, while preparing the planting hole. Dig a hole wide enough to hold the roots without bending them, and just deep enough so that the tree will be planted at the same depth it grew in the field.

Scrape the sides of the hole to roughen them to enable the roots to grow through into the adjoining soil easily. Place a mound of the removed soil into the center of the planting hole and tamp slightly to firm. Rest the roots around the mound, checking to be sure that the line on the trunk showing how deeply the tree was planted in the field is about an inch or two
above the level of soil at the sides of the hole. The tree will settle a little once it is planted and watered. Begin placing additional soil in the hole until the roots are covered. Add water to settle the soil around the roots. Repeat this process filling and watering, until the level of soil in the planting hole is equal to that of the surrounding ground. Planting too deeply can injure or even kill the tree, so err on the side of planting a little high rather than too low.

Once the tree is planted, it is helpful to build a circular ridge or berm of soil about two feet from the tree trunk to retain water. This will hold the water while it soaks into the soil. Cover the inside of the berm with a 3-6" layer of mulch, i.e., dry leaves, wood chips or shredded bark. Organic matter placed around the plant, but not touching the trunk, will help to prevent water from evaporating, insulate the roots in cold weather, and keep the soil from becoming too hot and drying out during the summer.

In addition, it may be helpful to stake the tree during its first year, or until it is established in the soil.

Sharon

My friend has an Alberta Spruce growing in his yard.The bottom half is an Alberta and growing on the top half is a Blue Spruce. It looks very unusual. It was not grafted on the tree. Is this possible or maybe just a fluke of nature?

Please accept my apology for my slow response to your email. Your question has had me stumped!!! I've asked another Master Gardener friend, and she has also been unable to come up with an answer. Both of us feel it must have been grafted somehow. Do you know how your friend acquired the tree, i.e., from a commercial nursery, etc? What is even more puzzling is the fact that an Alberta spruce (Picea glauca 'albertiana') is the bottom half, or root stalk and the top half is Colorado Blue Spruce ( Picea pungens 'glauca'). If the tree is somehow a graft, the Colorado Blue Spruce would commercially be grafted on to a native of its species, i.e. Colorado Spruce (Picea pungens) rather than a Picea glauca, of which the native is White Spruce. Crossing species would normally produce a weaker tree which might not live. Therefore, it would be helpful to know the history of the tree, and the possibility that it might have been an experimental graft, assuming again that it must somehow have been grafted.

Sharon

What can I do about rust on my hollyhocks?

Regarding your question, the fungicide most recommended in my research is Daconil 2787 which contains chlorothalonil. Other fungicides mentioned are Fore, Dithane or Penncozeb which contain mancozeb. The fungicide spraying should begin early in the season, making sure to keep new foliage covered with the spray, especially the underside of the foliage, Spraying should be repeated every 7 - 10 days. Hollyhock plants should be widely spaced to allow good air circulation, and should only be watered early in the day so that any moisture on the leaves can dry quickly. Ideally, they should be watered below the leaf line, as dampness spreads the growth of the fungus causing the rust. Old plants should be cut down and burned or removed as soon as flowering is over. In the fall it is important to cut all hollyhock stalks back to the ground, carefully collect all leaves and other aboveground plant parts and destroy them. This cleanup is very important because the fungus survives the winter on infected plant parts. The common mallow weed may host the rust disease, so if you have any mallow weed in your garden, it should be destroyed as well.

Rust on hollyhocks cannot be cured, but it may be controlled following the above procedures.

Sharon

I have two rhododendrons, that have bloomed gloriously for the last two years, but this season they did not, they have lots of new leave growth, but only one bud that blossomed on one of them. Any idea why they wouldn't have buds and blossom?

There are several possibilities for lack of blooms on your rhododendrons. Lack of water in July and August, when the plants are setting flower buds for next spring's bloom, can result in lack of blooms since they require water to form healthy buds. The watering should be tapered off in September to allow the plants to move into dormancy. Applications of nitrogen rich fertilizers are a main cause of vigor in a rhododendron, which will produce healthy leaves but suppress flower bud production. It is recommended to use a 10-6-4 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) formula for rhododendron fertilizer. Deadheading flowers as soon as they wilt encourages flower production for the coming year. Since flower buds are formed in late summer/early fall, any pruning done at that time or later would remove the flower bud. Pruning of rhododendrons should be done right after the flowers are wilted, in conjunction with deadheading. Too much shade, a cool wet summer, or inadequate phosphorus or potassium in the soil may also suppress flower bud production.

I hope this information will be helpful for you. If you have any other questions, or would like more information regarding your rhodies, please contact me.

Sharon

What are some of the signs that a tree may be dead? The top of the tree still has some green on it but towards the middle and bottom of the tree it doesn't have any green.

The quick answer is that your madrona is suffering. I'll follow up with a detailed explanation of a fungal problem attacking madrona, not only here, but throughout the Pacific Northwest.

When the tree is completely dead, the bark of the trunk will display the same brownish color of the leafless branches. There is very little that can be done to save a failing madrona.

Thank you for your question, and I'll get back to you soon with more information.

Sharon

Where can I locate madrona trees for sale or planting?

You can purchase madrona trees at Ace Hardware in Anacortes. The plants are young and small, as madronas can be quite difficult to transpant. Becky Stinson, a veteran Master Gardener, manages the Ace Hardware nursery section and has developed a native plant section. She is very knowledgeable about native plants and would provide helpful information regarding transplanting madronas. I would also be glad to answer any further questions you might have.

Sharon

I love transparent sauce and deep-dish pie in early summer, so was really bummed when a school bus backed into my 15 year old tree last winter. Since then, we've looked for a new tree to buy, but would rather buy a producer than a small bare root. Any advice about where to look? Most local nurseries don't carry yellow transparents.

I agree with you--transparent apples make the best applesauce and pies!

Locally, and I'm making the assumption you are local, both Christianson's and Skagit Valley Gardens are stocking Yellow Transparent apple trees this season. Christianson's have just come in and are not yet in the sales area, and Skagit Valley Gardens' stock is due to arrive by next Tuesday. I did not check to see what size and/or if they are bare root or not. Gurney's Seed & Nursery stock yellow transparents for mail order, most likely bare root.

Sharon

Can you tell me if you can use concrete blocks to form a raised bed? I just had a concern if the concrete would leach anything into the soil that might keep the vegetables from doing well.

Thank you for your question. Concrete blocks are fine for a raised bed. If they would leach at all, it would tend to be alkaline which would have the effect of neutralizing an acidic soil. This would only occur at the perimeter of the bed.

Sharon

I moved last year to the Holiday Hideaway area of Guemes Island last year, and I'm finally getting ready to consider planting a small orchard. I live on the end of a ridge and have a nice sunny spot chosen. I plan to add soil to the area this summer (it is pretty rocky) and hope to put in a few cherry trees and perhaps an apricot or 2 in the spring of next year. I am considering dwarf varieties since the space is a bit limited (probably 25' by 25' when I'm done), and I would like the fruit to be a bit easier to reach as well as protect from the birds. I love the big, sweet Bings, which I see you recommend as well as the beautiful golden varieties, like Ranier and Queen Anne. However, coming from a Southern California climate, I don't know the first thing about cherries at all. I see that a Puget Gold might be a successful choice for an apricot. What might it need to thrive?

What do I need to know, do, and avoid, and am I on the wrong track with the dwarf idea?

As a followup to our conversation, I highly recommend dwarf varieties whenever possible. Semidwarf trees are usually stronger and bear fruit sooner than dwarf trees; Puget Gold is available in both dwarf and semidraft varieties, as is the Bing cherry.

Regarding semi-dwarf over dwarf, space would be the determining factor, in my opinion. Dwarf trees will grow to 8' to 15' tall; semidwarf 12' to 20' tall. Pruning can make a big difference in size. If space were not a factor, I'd probably go with the semidwarf as they are reported to be stronger, and also bear fruit sooner.

Plant fruit trees in an area where they will get the maximum amount of sunlight (your nice sunny spot should do well), and good drainage. Apricots need medium watering, i.e., infrequent, deep watering. Cherries need high watering: regular, deep watering. Regarding pollination needs, Puget Gold is self-pollinizing, i.e., can set fruit with its own pollen; most sweet cherries, including Bing, benefit from cross-pollination. In fact, the Bing Cherry is cross-incompatible: will not fertilize others. It can be cross-pollinized with Hardy Giant, Early Burlat, Angela, Stella or Sam. Rainier will pollinate a Bing. I didn't mention it in the list because the Washington State University Mount Vernon Research & Extension Center rates the Rainier as unsatisfactory in its pamphlet "Tree Fruit Varieties for Western Washington." Hardy Giant was rated "best quality," Early Burlat and Angela "promising," and Sam and Stella "worthy of trial." I received my copy of this publication in 2000, so the ratings may have been revised. Its publication no. is EBO937 and provides excellent information on all tree fruit varieties for our area.

A suggestion regarding pollination: consider providing orchard mason bees for your fruit trees. Puget Gold in particular flowers during the height of our rainy season, which can make pollination difficult.The orchard mason bee is a gentle, beneficial insect that is non-aggressive and will sting only if handled roughly or gets trapped under clothing. Local nurseries sell orchard mason bee kits. You can buy a complete kit, which includes both the nesting post and bees, or either separately.

If you have any other questions regarding growing fruit trees in our area, please contact me.

Sharon

I can't help notice the hearty yellow and orange plants outside of Anderson's Country Store. What might these be?

They appear to thrive on benign neglect, have an awesome presence and not be seeking special soil, water or deer protection. Thanks on any help in identifying them.

The plants are called Red Hot Poker or Torch Lily (Kniphofia). They are clump-forming perennials, with often evergreen foliage that emerge from vigorous rhizomes. They can be propagated by division after flowering, or from seed. They certainly appear to be low maintenance. In fact, in Sunset Western Garden Book , it specifies "no dry-season water."

Sharon

My Rhododendron hasn't bloomed. What would cause this, and what might help it to bloom?

I found the following information in "Rhododendrons and Azaleas" - a Sunset Book.

Young rhododendron plants may take several years in a garden to establish themselves before blooming. Some species raised from seed may require from 5 to 15 years or more to reach blooming age.

On established plants, shade is probably the most frequent cause of low bloom production. Sunlight, or at least light, is required to set flower buds for the following spring; too much sun burns the leaves, too little cuts down on flowers.

Another fairly common cause is over-fertilization with high nitrogen fertilizers, which will produce vegetative growth rather than flower buds. Unless winters are mild, this can also leave rhodies more susceptible to winter damage. To remedy this, cut down on nitrogen or eliminate it temporarily, but maintain applications of phosphorus and potassium to promote flower formation and ripening of growth.

Sharon

The garden we inherited has been totally covered by heavy black plastic with about 3 inches of dirt on top. Some folks around here say "leave it alone" because it will help warm the soil in the garden. Other folks said, "Pull it up!" It looks as though it was used to keep weeds out. There is dirt (and a good bit of it) underneath the plastic. Have you heard of this method of gardening here in the Northwest? What would you suggest?

Thank you for your question. You are correct in that black plastic (synthetic mulch) is used as a method of weed control. Over time, however, weed seeds will blow in and germinate in the soil covering the plastic, thus reducing the weed control. If it were in my garden, I would remove it. The fact that plastic does not breathe can create a lifeless soil that can lead to root disease problems. For weed suppression, I would use an organic mulch such as compost, shredded bark or leaves, pine needles, etc. Although more expensive, landscape fabrics can also be used for weed suppression in woody landscape beds.

These laminated fabrics are porous so that water and air can pass through, but prevent weed roots from penetrating and becoming established. To look attractive, however, they would also need to be covered with organic mulch, so why bother!!!

The only place that I might use plastic mulch would be in annual vegetable or flower gardens, used in conjunction with drip irrigation. Stretched tightly over the soil surface, it will provide weed control as well as soil warming. Slits would be cut in the plastic, and plants placed close to the water source. The plastic would be disposed of after the growing season. Landscape fabric could also be used in an annual vegetable or flower garden where there is no drip irrigation system.

Sharon

We live in BC and our yard backs onto a forest. The yard has a large amount of salal. This year the majority of it has turned brown and wilted. The bushes look dead and are dry and easy to break. Do you know of a salal "disease" and can we treat it?

Thank you for your question. My initial response was "drought," but I wanted to check some references to confirm my diagnosis. I checked with a native plant expert who agreed with my conclusion. His own salal has suffered dieback also. Salal (Gaultheria Shallon) is in the Ericaceae family, as is Rhododendron. Its cultural requirements are: "Grow in acidic to neutral, peaty, moist soil in partial shade. Full sun may be tolerated where the soil is permanently moist." Since we have experienced unusually dry summers in the past few years, salal has suffered.

New shoots may appear at the base of the plant if the roots are not dead. Watering during the drought period is the only remedy I can think of!!

Sharon

Is this a good time to move my blueberry bush?

Now is an excellent time to move your blueberry bush. January to March is the best time to set out blueberry plants, so the timing is perfect!

Sharon

I have a couple of nice clumps of the Dahlia "Bishop of Landaff". Do dahlias need to be dug on Guemes or can I leave them in the ground?

Thank you for your question. Since I don't grow dahlias myself, I've checked with several gardeners on the island, and also checked the WSU Extension website, and the consensus is to leave them in the ground, with a deep cover of mulch or leaves over the tubers. The only concern I heard was the possibility of tuber rot, as they need well-drained soil. If planted in well-drained soil, this should not be a problem.

When the dahlia tubers need to be divided, every two to three years, divide in the fall and replant. One Guemes gardener, whose experience I respect and trust, says that when she's lost dahlias, it was when she dug them up for overwintering (lost them to freezing in storage, dehydration, etc.)!!

Sharon

Is there any reason that arbutus menziesii, Pacific Madrone, seem more rare on Guemes than on other islands? Is there anywhere on the island that they grow well? Would they grow from nursery stock or would they be deer-consumed?

Pacific Madrone has been declining in the Pacific Northwest over the last 20 years. The exact causes are unknown, but a combination of factors: drought, soil compaction, fire suppression and introduced diseases, are thought to be causative. It is thought that the severe droughts in the mid-60's may have initiated a decline in madrones. Madrones cannot tolerate extreme drought and do best in climates with high light intensity and abundant water. Madrones in areas of high wind can experience decline.

Madrones naturally grow in forests mixed with other hardwoods and conifers which provide protection from the wind to individual madrone trees. When other trees are cleared, leaving the madrones unprotected, they can experience stress from windy conditions.

Once a plant is stressed, it is susceptible to disease. The Madrones are susceptible to several fungal infections, which cause leaf diseases, root rot, and crown rot.

Several things can be done to optimize growing conditions:

1. Protect trees from excessive wind exposure by planting in a group of trees rather than single, isolated trees.

2. Prevent severe water stress. During periods of drought, irrigate trees in sandy or gravelly soils if there has been no rain for more than 2 weeks. Applying a mulch to madrones planted in these soils in the early summer will help to retain water. The mulch should be 6-8 inches thick.

3. Provide open growing conditions. Madrones are relatively shade-intolerant. They do best in areas with open canopies, low humidity, low nutrient soils, and little competition from other plants. Make any changes to their environment slowly as they do not respond well to sudden changes.

New planting of madrones:

Include madrones in a planting areas with other native shrubs such as salal (Gaultheria shallon), ocean spray (Holodiscus discolor) and Oregon Grape (Mahonia aquifolium), in a area protected by wind if possible. Cover the soil with mulch or bark, but no lawn. Avoid excessive watering that could lead to waterlogging the soil, or once established, water only during a drought period.

I would recommend planting nursery stock madrones, or madrones purchased from the Native Plant Society over transplanting madrones. They have an extensive root system which is difficult to remove, and they have a reputation for being temperamental!

Much of this information is from an article by Marianne Elliott, graduate student, College of Forest Resources, University of Washington, entitled "Management options for declining madrones in urban areas of Puget Sound."

She has a website if you would like more information.

Hi Sharon,

I have successfully dug and transplanted 2 madrona trees and they are thriving in their current locations. They are extremely difficult to transplant so in many cases, simply buying nursery stock is often the best way to go. However, if a person wants to try, and you feel lucky, be sure and dig the trees when they are very, very small. Make sure you dig outside and below the roots, carefully! Place the tree in a pot that will decompose if planted (transferring them from a plastic pot to the soil is enough to kill them). We have kept our madronas covered by wire cages as a precaution against deer, although I donít know for sure if deer would bother them. The trees are now several feet tall so the time is coming fasr when we will find out for sure whether deer like them! Alice Shoultz once told me that a deer ate the top off a volunteer madrona that was growing near the foundation of her house.

I once transplanted a live madrona and within a week it turned black, and for all intents and purposes appeared totally dead. I was totally surprised after about two weeks to find new sprouts growing, and the tree is now thriving! So you can't count them out just because they "look" dead.

Madronas are beautiful trees and more deliberate attempts should be made to ensure their survival.

Tim Wittman.

Can you please tell me the types of fruit trees that grow well on Guemes? This list of fruit tree varieties for Western Washington was compiled by Washington State University, Mount Vernon Research & Extension Center:

Apple - Gravenstein, Arkane, Chehalis, Liberty, Jonagold. (Also see list and discussion below).

Pear - Clapp Favorite (Bennett), Bartlett, Orcas, Comice, Rescue, Starkrimson

Asian Pears (Nashi) - Shineseiki, Kosui, Chojuro

Plum/Prune - Methley, Beauty, Shiro, Early Italian, Seneca

Cherry (Sweet) - Van, Angela, Hardy Giant, Emperor Francis, Bing, Early Burlat

Cherry (tart) - Montmorency, Kansas Sweet, English Morello

Peach - Early Redhaven, Harken, Frost, Velvet, Redhaven, Rosy Dawn,

Apricot - Not generally successful; try Puget Gold

Nectarine - Not generally successful; try Juneglo

What kind of apple trees do best on the island? I'm looking for a small tree, that is pretty good for either eating or making apple pie. What do you suggest for strawberries and blue berries (really sweet)?

Thank you for your questions. I'll give you my suggestions, and also ask for input from our email audience.

Apples:

Jonagold - cross of Golden Delicious and Jonathan, very good for dessert and excellent for cooking
Liberty - wine-red dessert apple
Akane - red apple. Dessert quality very good to excellent; tart, sprightly flavor
Spartan - purplish, red apple. Top quality dessert variety, keeps very well
William's Pride - medium to dark red on green-yellow background; very crisp & juicy, flavor mild sub-acid

I believe all of the above can be purchased in dwarf form.

Blueberries:

Spartan - flavor excellent, fruit size very large, early ripening
Olympia - flavor excellent, fruit size medium, midseason ripening
Bluecrop - flavor very good, fruit size large, midseason ripening

With blueberries, plant more than one cultivar to provide cross-pollination and set larger berries. I have planted both Spartan and Olympia. Both are excellent, but for sweetness I prefer Spartan.

Strawberries:

Tristar - everbearing variety, good flavor, small to medium fruit size. Rated highly by WSU Extension
Shuksan - June-bearing variety, very sweet, medium fruit size.

Planting both varieties of the above would provide excellent berries for the entire growing season.

If you would like any further information on any of the above, please let me know.

Also, I'm hoping we receive input from our readers!

Hi Sharon,

Jackie and I have had very good success growing the King apple and the Yellow Transparent apple on Guemes. The Transparent apples make fantastic pies and apple sauce. They are one of the 'early' varieties and are usually ready to pick in late July/August. They are very tart and crisp. Left too long on the tree, however, and they loose their crispness fast; that's why I pick them when they are just turning ripe . . . they don't keep well so it's best to use them right away. We like to make ours into individual pie fillings and freeze them for apple pie over the winter. The King apples are huge! About the size of a softball or large grapefruit. They are crisp, tart, sweet, and keep well over the winter. They are wonderful to eat fresh, right off the tree, or cook up well in pies, or as baked apples. The King is a later apple, coming ripe around the end of October to mid-November.

Best Wishes,
Tim Wittman

Hi Tim,

Thank you. I love the Yellow Transparent, and have also heard good things about the King apple from others on the island. It's nice to be able to give people a choice. Also to be able to let people know what actually does well, rather than just statistics!

Thanks again,
Sharon

Sharon,

The Akane is my very favorite apple. Beautiful on the tree, does well, no scab, nobody bothers it except the crows. Jonagold does well for us and every other year the Red Gravenstein. This year we are trying a
couple of new ones, Fiesta and Dayton. We will see how they do, this is their first year. Liberty also did pretty good last year. Each year seems to be different. But Akane is each year the same, doing very well.

I have Akane, Jonagold, Liberty, Gravenstein and William's Pride in my garden. Akane and Jonagold are the best. For me William's Pride was so-so. Akane seems to be completely pest free and if my favorite apple. All you have to battle is the yellow jackets when the apples are ready.

Carol Pellett

Hi Carol,

Thank you. Another person told me Akane was their favorite apple, and WSU rates it "best quality." Please let me know how the new ones do.

Sharon